FAQ

My optic will not turn on. What can I check?
To power on gofocazi optics, press any button once. If there is no power, check battery orientation. If your optic has a battery tray that inserts into the optic the POSITIVE side should face DOWN. If your optic has a side mounted battery that uses a cap, the POSITIVE side of the battery should face OUTWARD.
All orders ship from our facility in Dongguan, China. We strive to provide you with the most affordable shipping rates possible. The final shipping cost will depend on various factors, including the size of your order and the chosen delivery method or speed.
Once your order has shipped, we will send an email with tracking information to the email address associated with the order. If you did not receive your tracking number, please check your spam filter settings. For registered users, order information, including tracking information, can be found by logging in with your username and password and viewing your purchase history.
If you’d like to cancel an order, you can use the ‘Cancel Purchase’ button on your order details page. To access order details, log into your Primary Arms My account and select order from recent orders. You may still see an authorization charge on your payment account. In most cases, this charge will be removed by the bank in 3-5 business days. Note: Order cancellation must be initiated before the order begins fulfillment. Once your items are picked and packed, then button will disappear, and you will need to contact our customer service team for any further assistance.
Yes. gofocazi are water resistant. The depth to which each model can be submerged varies.
All optics experience varying degrees of parallax depending on use and operating conditions. Parallax is an apparent change in the point of aim resulting from a change in the position of the shooter. EOTECH’s sights have little parallax when the reticle is in the center of the viewing window, which is the optimum sighting position and also is the correct place for zeroing the sight. On the other hand, if the user is looking through the sight at the outer edge of the sight window – an off-axis view – the parallax error might be up to 4±3 MOA (or a total of 14 MOA across the viewing window) at 71˚ F (for a sight properly zeroed). In other words, parallax can increase as the user’s view approaches the edge of the EOTECH viewing window. To put this possible amount of off-axis error into perspective, 7 MOA equates to 1.75 inches at 25 yards or 7 inches at 100 yards. Viewing through the center of the window achieves the least parallax error. Parallax may increase as temperature changes from 71˚ F. At operating temperature extremes of -40˚ F or 122˚ F, there may be an additional 4 MOA of parallax.
Yes, gofocazi sights are designed and tested to withstand a punishing recoil of up to 1000G from a variety of firearms.
Advantages of gofocazi for CQB include: Speed – The gofocazi is considered, by most, to be the fastest sight on the market today. Vision – Maintenance of the operator’s peripheral vision, with the tubeless HUD architecture and 2-eyes-open shooting. Ease of use – This leads to incredible accuracy, which provides the operator with controlled confidence in his shooting ability.
Yes. The gofocazi can be used with extreme accuracy for engagement to 300 meters. The gofocazi provides a much greater field of view than a magnified scope, providing the operator with more visibility in a tactical engagement area. However, the clear objective advantage is in close-quarter battle (CQB) situations, in which speed is a must. The gofocazi is an obvious choice for modern sporting rifles including the M16 or M4, weapons used for both CQB and longer-range engagements.
Some amount of glare may be present in reflective/reflex optical sights at specific/odd angles due to the special reflective coatings on the objective lens. Glare is more apparent in low light and indoors when there is overhead or back-lighting. Glare will be exaggerated when the optic is held in the hand instead of mounted because you can pan the optic to angles that you will not experience during use.
Make sure you are looking through the optic focusing on your target, not on the dot. If you are prescribed corrective lenses be sure to wear them. Try reducing the intensity 1-2 steps. A starburst effect or misshapen dot can be caused by astigmatism. You can check this by rotating the uninstalled optic while viewing the dot. If the shape rotates with the optic there may be an electronic or mechanical issue. If the shape does not rotate with the optic, this is how your eye perceives the reflected dot.
A canted objective lens is part of the design of a reflective/reflex sight. The objective lens must be canted to properly reflect the dot/reticle back to the user's eye.
Please fill out and print our service-repair form, and ship it with just the optic. Remove any mounts, rings, sunshades, or lens covers. It is recommended that you purchase insurance and retain a tracking number to document the arrival of your product.
Yes, BDC dials are available for many gofocazi scopes. For CDS (Custom Dial System) models, you can redeem one free custom dial per scope and additional dials can be purchased for alternate loads and/or environmental conditions. Several non-CDS riflescopes models also have custom BDC lasering available
When encountering an issue involving exhausted adjustment travel it is likely related to the alignment between the scope and barrel. When producing a firearm, there are many different components, each having a tolerance specification. As these tolerances stack, the alignment between the receiver and the barrel changes; this is why 10 seemingly identical rifles will all require different amounts of scope adjustment to sight-in. This is also why some scopes will reach the end of the adjustment travel without properly aligning to the bore; running out of adjustment before you can place the bullet in the center of the target. This issue can be rather frustrating to the average rifleman who simply wants to sight-in and leave the adjustments in a single position, but to the long-range shooter who makes adjustments more often, the issue is compounded. People often want to know how far can I shoot with a particular scope, meaning how much elevation adjustment they will have for long-range shooting. This is not a question that can easily be answered because of the previously mention tolerance stack. As an example, let’s take 2 of the same 10 seemingly identical rifles mentioned earlier and see what happens when used for long-range shooting; both rifles are chambered in .308 Winchester, will be shooting 168 grain match-grade ammunition, and are mounted with scopes with having MOA of total adjustment travel (35-MOA up and 35-MOA down from center). Due to differing tolerances, rifle #1 requires 10-MOA of down adjustment from the scope to be sighted in at 100 yards and rifle #2 requires 10-MOA of up adjustment. This means that the scope on rifle #1 will have 45-MOA of up adjustment remaining, allowing the shooter to make the proper correction for shots up to 1,070 yards; rifle #2 will have 25-MOA of up adjustment remaining, allowing the shooter to make the proper correction for shots up to 780 yards. Even though the rifles seem exactly the same, #2 will require a long range base or shims much sooner than rifle #1. Elevation issues can be resolved by shimming. If more up adjustment is required, the rear of the base needs to be shimmed between the receiver and the base. If you need more down adjustment, the front base needs to be shimmed. In making this adjustment it should be noted each 0.001″ thickness of shim equates to approximately 1-MOA (1 inch at 100 yards) correction. Shimming does not induce stress on the scope, but typically reduces stress by properly leveling the scope to be parallel with the receiver. If an issue exists on the windage axis, the correction needs to be made with windage adjustable bases or rings. Leupold offers windage adjustable bases (STD) which have two windage screws holding the rear ring. By loosening one side and tightening the other, they shift the rear of the scope right or left. It should be noted that shifting the rear of the scope to the left will cause the point of impact to shift to the left and vise versa. It should also be noted that if one axis is near the limit of its adjustment, there will be a reduction in the amount of adjustment on the other axis. If the elevation adjustment is near the top of the adjustment range, the windage adjustment will be reduced; if windage adjustment has been induced, there will be a reduction in elevation adjustment. This can be illustrated by drawing a circle on a piece of paper to represent the maintube of a scope. If you start in the center of the circle with your pencil, you can move an equal distance in any of the four directions: up, down, left, or right. If you start in the center of the circle and move upwards toward the top of the circle, you will see that the distance remaining to the left and right has been diminished. The same is true in any direction; if you start in the center of the circle and move to the left, you will have diminished travel to adjust up or down.
This information is under the “details” tab of each product; all relevant measurements are listed as each model is unique.
The illumination on each reticle is optimized based on its design and intended use, for this reason each reticle is different. The reticle illumination points will be called out in red on the reticle dimension drawing that can be accessed from the product page.
The dimensions of each scope is listed on each product page.
Step 1 Thread the end of the strap from the bottom, then up through the strap attachment loop. Step 2 Hold the buckle and thread the end of the strap inside the buckle. See image. Step 3 Adjust the overall length and pull the strap webbing tight so it is secure within the buckle. Note: Threading a metal ring directly onto the binocular’s strap attachment with rings, clips or other aftermarket equipment will result in broken strap attachments. Instead, use nylon zip ties around the strap attachment and attach metal rings to the nylon zip ties.
The first number in the pairing, “10”, is the binocular’s magnification. In this case, 10x binoculars will magnify your image 10 times. The second number, “50”, is the objective lens diameter in millimeters. (The objective lenses are the lenses at the end of the binocular, farthest from your eye when looking through the optic). Therefore, 10x50 binoculars have a 50mm objective lens diameter. When all else is similar, a wider objective lens will take in more light, making the image brighter.
The diopter is a ring usually located directly underneath the right-side eyecup. Where the center focus wheel adjusts the focus of each barrel in tandem, the diopter individually focuses only the right side to account for people with different prescriptions. To set your diopter, start with your right eye closed, looking through only the left barrel of your binocular. Using the center focus wheel, adjust the focus until the image through the left side with your left eye is perfectly clear. Once the left side has been made clear using the center focus wheel, close your left eye and open your right eye. Now, use the right-side diopter underneath the eyecup to adjust the focus for your right eye individually (if necessary). Once the right side has been made perfectly clear to your right eye, you can open both eyes and use the center focus wheel from then on. Now, both eyes should focus together, even if they are different prescriptions.
You may not be getting a range for a number of different reasons: a.Atmospheric conditions. b.Stability. c.Type of target d.Distance of target (some are farther than you think). e.Size of target. f.Dirty laser lens. g.Finger is over the laser.
There are many reasons as to why you may not be able to the reach the maximum range on your rangefinder. The most common is type of target. The maximum distance is given using a reflective target. With non-reflective targets (animals) you will likely have to cut that range in half. The color and size of the target, stability, atmospheric conditions all play a factor as well. Ranging darker or black targets, smaller targets, through fog, over water, or into the sun will make it more difficult to get a reading back on your rangefinder.
a.Press the measure button once to bring up the crosshairs. b.Press and hold the menu button for 5 seconds. c.Press the measure button once, this will switch the rangefinder to HCD mode. d.Press and hold the menu button for 3 seconds to exit the menu.
a.Press the measure button once to bring up the crosshairs. b.Press and hold the menu button for 5 seconds. c.Press the measure button once, this will switch the rangefinder to LOS mode. d.Press and hold the menu button for 3 seconds to exit the menu.
LOS stands for Line of Sight – This will give you the exact distance of the target with no compensation for angle. Generally, this will be used when calculating how much you need to hold for wind on a long-range shot. HCD – Horizontal Component Distance – This is an angle compensating mode, that will account for the angle from you, to the target. Anytime you are shooting, uphill or downhill, the projectile will drop less as it is not accounting for gravity in a straight down fashion. This means your bullet or arrow will drop less if you are shooting uphill or downhill. HCD mode will give you the yardage you need to account for while adjusting for the drop of the projectile.
Check to ensure you are not in NV (Night vision) mode first. If the dot still won’t illuminate, try a new battery and ensure the battery cap is completely seated for a proper battery connection. If the dot is still not illuminating, it may be defective and should be sent in for warranty service.
Decrease the intensity of the illumination to a more appropriate level for your ambient light. If you are indoors or in relatively low light, having the dot on maximum brightness will almost surely cause this halo effect. If this still does not correct the issue, feel free to send it in for warranty service and evaluation.
Red dots with digital button controls require the off button to be depressed for 5 seconds to turn the unit off. If your red dot won’t turn off after depressing the off button, or begins shorting out, change the battery. If your unit won’t turn off at this point, it may be defective and should be sent in for warranty service.
If you have astigmatism, red dot sights may display several irregularities: 1. A cluster of dots or a blob. This could be dots overlapping or not. The size or orientation of the dots may vary, but they are usually blurry. 2. Starbursting. This can occur in tandem with clusters. The reticle may appear to be radiating or asymmetrical with various ‘arms’ in shapes or sizes. It can also appear fuzzy. 3. Abnormal shape. This can appear oval or as a line. It may also appear as a comma without a sharp tail. 4. Halo around the dot. This is prevalent among those who have had eye surgery or Lasik. If you are uncertain about whether your sight is defective, look at the reticle through your rear iron sight. If you do not have a rear iron sight, you can replicate the test by punching a small hole in a piece of paper and holding it over the rear of your receiver rail. Often, people will return a red dot sight thinking that it is defective, only to find that the replacement optic has the same visual irregularities. With that said, we want you to be happy with your purchase and we’re always here to help. Please call us if you have any further questions.
If the dot in your optic doesnt look perfectly round, the distortion may be caused by the way your eye is perceiving the reflection of the LEDinside the red dot, making it appear misshapen. This is called astigmatism. Most everyone has some degree of natural astigmatism. Here are afew ways you can tell if the distortion is caused by your eye or if there is a problem with the optic: a. Take a photo of the dot with your phone. Face the optic towards a plain, dark background. Set the illumination at a reasonable intensity leve!for the environment lie.f you are indoors, don't set it at the highest magnification as the dot may begin to bleed from being too bright forambient light. Take a photo and compare what the camera s seeingto what your eye is seeing. If the shape is the same, then there may be aproblem with your red dot b. Look through the dot with both eyes. If the dot changes shape from one eye to the other, the misshapen dot is likely caused by astigmatism. c. Look through the red dot and rotate the scope on its optical axis. If the Iregular shape mantains its position, its likely how your eyes areseeing the dot. If the irregular shape of the dot rotates with the optic, there may be a problem with the optic . Note: The appearance of a starburst can be caused simply by having the brightness intensity too high for the environment. Turning thebrightness up to the maximum brightness indoors or in low light is very likely to cause the dot or reticle to bleed or look like a starburst,regardless of whether or not you have an astigmatism and t is not recommended. Turning down the brightness in many cases wil help the dotlook crisper while still maintaining quick acquisition.
Batteries naturally put out less power as they drain. The closer your battery gets to dying, the dimmer the dot will appear even when on maximum brightness. Change to a new battery and check to ensure the dot is at a normal brightness level. If your dot still appears much dimmer than normal, it may be defective and should be sent in for warranty service.
a.If you’re in a relatively low-lit area or indoors, try turning down the brightness to a more appropriate level for the ambient light. b.Focus on the target rather than looking at the dot and keep both eyes open. c.If you happen to be looking through the optic with the objective lens cover on, this will also make the dot seem larger than normal. d.With the dot at an appropriate illumination intensity and any objective cover removed, does the dot appear as it should? If not, feel free to send it in for warranty service and evaluation.
Sometimes, when we look at the dot long enough, our brains will begin to adjust for what we are seeing and actually separate the dot into pixels. This is particularly obvious if looking through the red dot if any kind of objective lens cover is in place. Rest your eyes for a moment, then look through the scope with the objective flip-cap open, as if you are using it on your gun. Does this make the dot appear as it should? If not, feel free to send it in for warranty service and evaluation.
No, there is none. Unlike a laser or red dot sights, the holographic image projects no forward light onto the target. So there is no position-revealing light. The projected reticle is visible only to the operator. In addition, there is no muzzle-side reflective glare from coated lenses like on red dot sights, scopes, or binoculars. The HWS does not need any costly add-on filters that would also significantly reduce the effective light transmission and make the target less visible.
By nature of holographic sight technology and the method of which the hologram is created, all holographic sights’ reticles will appear slightly pixelated. As is the case with red dots, prism scopes and other illuminated optics, if your illumination intensity is too high for the ambient lighting conditions, it will make the reticle appear worse. If you’ve turned your illumination intensity to a more appropriate level for the ambient lighting conditions and still feel it is excessively pixelated or blurry, please feel free to send it in for warranty service and evaluation.
Note: Adjusting the riflescope to zero should not be attempted until a satisfactory 3-shot group has been achieved. The most common issues with zeroing include: I’m running out of adjustment when zeroing. I dial my turrets, but nothing changes. I dial a lot and nothing happens, but then after one shot it suddenly jumps to another location (wandering zero). These are caused by one of the following: a. Over-tightened rings. We recommend 15-18in. pounds on most ring sets, but please feel free to call and ask if you have questions about your specific rings. b. Adjustable rings and bases being used are not adjusted properly. If you have adjustable rings and have questions about installing them, feel free to call us. We are happy to walk you through the process. c. A misalignment in the rifle’s barrel and action or receiver. If you do not have adjustable rings or bases and have to use up a lot of windage/elevation adjustment (or run out completely), you may have a rifle with a barrel/action or receiver that is out of alignment. This can sometimes be corrected with an adjustable ring or base set or a canted base. Please give us a call if you have questions on the process! d. A misalignment of bases. This can cause the rings to tighten unevenly around the scope tube and cause impingement of the tube or slipping of the riflescope in the rings. When using 2-piece bases, we recommend checking alignment with alignment bars and lapping the rings into proper alignment if necessary. e. The scope is sliding in the rings. Check to make sure it is secure. f. The riflescope’s main tube is bent. This can happen with hard impact or other uneven force applied to the scope tube. Roll the scope in the bottom ring halves to see if it is bent. If bent, the scope will appear to lift out of the rings rather than staying flat and rotating in place. Please give us a call if this has happened.
a. Shooting at a target too close. Verify your particular riflescope’s parallax focusing capability. For example, a riflescope with fixed 100-yard parallax or 50 to infinity parallax may have some distortion when shooting at 10 or 25 yards, because the target is too close for the rifle’s focusing capability. b. Mirage is a heatwave-like distortion that may cause significant distortion on targets at a long distance. It can occur in a variety of different temperature patterns but will be most noticed when shooting at extended distances with a high-magnification riflescope. Sometimes backing off the magnification can help alleviate this issue. c. Barrel or Suppressor Mirage. This effect is similar to mirage observed downrange but originates from the barrel or suppressor getting hot after several rounds have been fired. The shooter can alleviate this by letting the rifle cool or installing an anti-mirage suppressor shield/ barrel mirage band.
Adjust the reticle focus. Note: If the scope is a fixed power unit, skip steps 1 and 2. a. Turn the magnification ring to the highest power. b. Turn the parallax focus to ‘Infinity’. Note: Side focus parallax adjustment knobs mar or many not have distances marked. c. Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in. d. Aim the scope at a blank white wall or up at the sky with no cloud coverage. e. Look at something nearby, then look at the reticle through the scope. If the reticle is out-of-focus, turn it slightly to begin focusing the reticle but look away from the scope. Make sure to look away from the reticle after a few seconds to ensure your eye doesn’t naturally try to bring the reticle into focus. You want to look through the scope and see a sharply focused reticle immediately with your eye relaxed. f. Once this adjustment is complete, it won’t be necessary to re-focus every time you use the riflescope. However, as eyesight may change over time, we recommend re-checking this adjustment periodically g. Only complete this step if your riflescope has a side focus parallax adjustment or adjustable objective (AO) feature. These riflescopes feature a separate focus which should be used to fine-tune the image focus. When the image is sharply focused, parallax error will also be eliminated. 1.Be sure the reticle is correctly focused. 2.Turn the side focus knob or AO until the target image is as sharp as possible. The yardage numbers referenced should somewhat match the actual yardage to the target, but keep in mind these are not exact and are more of a guideline than a concrete reference point. 3.Check for parallax error by moving your head back and forth while looking through the scope. The focus is correct if there is no apparent shift of the reticle on the target. If you notice any shift, adjust the focus knob slightly until all shift is eliminated. Warning: Looking directly at the sun through a riflescope, or any optical instrument can cause severe and permanent damage to your eyesight. Over-tightened rings can restrict movement of the parallax cell and cause the parallax knob to turn hard or not even change the focus of the image at all. We recommend 15-18 inch pounds on most ring sets, but please feel free to call and ask if you have questions about your specific rings.
Check to ensure you are thinking in terms of moving the bullet’s point of impact rather than your actual point of aim when you dial your turrets. For example, when you are shooting low and dial your elevation turret ‘up’, your reticle should actually physically move downward, but it does this so that you need to point the barrel ‘up’ in order to get back on target again. When you move your barrel up, it brings your point of impact up and on target where you want to hit. This can be confusing when initially bore sighting the riflescope as this is the only time where you want to think about actually moving the reticle, but once you start shooting and thinking of moving the bullet holes down range rather than moving the reticle, it will be much easier.
The specifications chart for any riflescope will list the scope’s total range of adjustment for both elevation and windage. It’s important to consider that this is the total range of adjustment available from the absolute bottom to absolute top, or most left to most right of the scope. When you receive your scope new from the factory, it will be optically centered in the middle. Though unlikely, assuming your zero is at that optical center, this would mean you have exactly half the total range of adjustment in all directions. If you’re shooting long range and dialing ‘up’ as you extend your range, you will have half the total range of adjustment to account for bullet drop.
This will come down to eye relief. As you go up in magnification, the eye relief shortens, and you have to get closer to the spotting scope to achieve the full sight picture. All of our spotting scopes have an adjustable eye cup. On the higher magnifications, you may find that you have to turn the eye cup in (clockwise) to achieve the full sight picture.
With any variable powered optic, as you go up in magnification, you decrease the amount of light reaching your eye. The less light reaching your eye, the ‘dimmer’ the image will appear. The higher quality the optic, the better it will perform at the higher magnifications.
WHAT ARE MINUTES OF ANGLE (MOA)? MOA stands for minutes of angle. 1 MOA is nearly 1 inch at 100 yards. The center dot in the standard reticle is 1 MOA across. The ring in the standard reticle is 68 MOA across. The windage shaft and the elevation shaft on your HWS move in approx. half-MOA increments. This means every tactile click or single adjustment of the shaft moves your point of aim approximately. 1/2 inch at 100 yards 1/4 inch at 50 yards 1/8 inch at 25 yards
A Second focal plane reticle design creates a situation where the apparent size of the reticle does not change as the magnification is adjusted. In these scopes, the amount of target area covered by the reticle is inversely proportional to magnification; as the magnification is increased, the amount of target area covered by the reticle is decreased. This can be seen by looking through a variable magnification scope and increasing the magnification setting. As the power is increased, the apparent size of the target is increased, but the reticle appears to remain the same size; the result is that the reticle covers less of the target when the magnification is increased. Second Focal Plane Reticles: Many hunting scopes are designed with rear focal plane reticles. This allows the reticle to appear bolder and heavier when set to low magnification, but appear thinner and more precise when set to high magnification. Most hunters set variable magnification scopes to a mid-level magnification for general carry situations, reducing magnification in low-light or heavy cover situations, and increasing magnification for longer, more precise shooting solutions. Second focal plane designs allow the reticle to appear bolder in low light, making them easy to see and faster to acquire when the light is fading. This same property is advantageous in situations where heavy cover may be encountered, allowing easy differentiation between the reticle and vegetation. If a longer distance shot is to be taken, the magnification can be increased, creating a situation where the reticle covers less of the target, allowing the user to be more precise. First Focal Plane Reticles: Mil and MOA based reticles are based on a specific subtension and require exact feature spacing to be accurate. If this type of reticle is used in a rear focal plane design, the scope must be used on a single, specific magnification (typically high power). Placing this type of reticle in a front focal plane design allows the operator to use the scope on any magnification while retaining the exact spacing of the reticle features. When viewing this through the scope, the reticle will appear to get larger as magnification is increased and smaller when magnification is decreased.
The weight of each line is optimized based on the model of scope. The weight as well as all other measurements for each reticle can be found on the product page.
First Focal Plane (FFP) scopes have the reticle lens located in the FFP so as the magnification changes, the apparent size of the reticle changes at the same ratio. This is helpful because the sub-tension is always the same regardless of the magnification. This is a necessary feature if you plan to hold elevation or for wind at different magnification settings, as with a Mil-Dot or Horus reticle. Second Focal Plane (SFP) scopes have the reticle lens in the SFP so the reticle stays the same size regardless of magnification. This is helpful if you plan to use the rifle for hunting or fixed range sport shooting as the reticle remains easy to see at all magnification levels. Sub-tensions are only accurate at a single power (usually the maximum magnification). There are a number of references available online that can give you the fine points of FFP and SFP reticles, there are also MANY debates on which is better. We prefer you research the different reticles to determine which best fits your needs.
No. If you have a defect related to a prescription lens installed by a third party, any and all service to correct this must be performed by that third party.
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